Mick Sullivan’s UTMB Journey: Conquering the 2024 Ultra-Trail

After years of intense training, Aussie Mick Sullivan took on the challenge of the 2024 UTMB in Chamonix, France. From the highs of breathtaking alpine trails to the lows of gruelling climbs and lack of sleep, Mick shares his unforgettable journey through one of the toughest ultra marathons in the world.

26 AUGUST 2024 – CHAMONIX, FRANCE: Rounding the corner I could see the carpet stretch out to the big blue UTMB archway. The adrenaline had kicked in and I ran at a good cadence to the cheering of spectators lining the street. It was 176.40km and 9,915m of vertical. I’d done it, the 2024 UTMB, a dream come true. This was my first full 100mi event.

Satisfying results don’t come easy; this event was the harmonising of many elements that either work for or against you in an ultra. It took four attempts at UTMB lotteries to get in. The journey to the start line involved two previous TDS attempts. Not all were completed in the preferred fashion, but many lessons learnt that made me more resilient and determined.   

I decided to have a go at the 145km TDS in 2022, with a massive 9,100m of vert. I’d only ever run a relatively flat 100km (1,800m), so I would have to up my training and skills to get to the start line.

The event was blessed with clear weather. I gave it my best and made Hauteluce at the 100km point. I was already planning next year’s event before going to the official to withdraw. I don’t regret trying the TDS, even though it was beyond my capabilities at the time. 

I was back in Chamonix for 2023. Four weeks training in the Alps put me in the best physical shape I had ever been in. Then a few days before the start, breathing was marginally more difficult than normal. I rolled up to the 11:50pm start in Courmayeur and got through the first two aid stations in reasonable time. Passing the Col Chavannes, the highest point in the TDS at 2,603m something was amiss, I could hardly run down the easy road. That year, the event was endowed with cold, sleet, snow, wind and rain; a thousand pairs of feet before me had churned the trail into a quagmire of mud. I slugged it out in the cold conditions, though, slipping and sliding. It was a battle, but I made the finish in Chamonix with 12 minutes to spare. Goal achieved, though loaded with more challenges than planned for. 

I ended up in hospital for a day, having developed Pulmonary Oedema, which started before the event from aspirating some biscuit into the right lung from eating while running.

Then finally, I got my entry into the 2024 UTMB. The taper went well, I’d started fresh and without injuries. The race involved more running than I expected for a course with so much vert. Two nights out running, big climbs and technical descents. It’s a tough event with a high attrition rate, about 1,001 withdrawals from 2,761 starters. The immortality of youth evaporated three decades ago, I learnt to achieve goals through planning, patience and persistence. 

The Start Line

Starting at 6pm gives you a whole day to chill out before the action begins, but when it came to the start line, it was buzzing with excitement. We surged under that Blue Archway as we began, the peloton expanding into an easy jog; thousands of spectators lined the streets, clapping, cheering, ringing cow bells and making every single noise they could think of. 

Once out of town, I settled into a smooth rhythm, and I’d prepared to carry my supplies to avoid having to enter the melee of the first aid stations. Winding roads carried us uphill towards the Col de Voza. 

The long descent to Saint Gervais (811m) begins with a very steep drop down ski slopes, and it’s a leg burner that needs to be taken at a sensible pace. With the light fading, St Gervais is a big aid station and a critical cut off point, but I got through in good time. Further on at the 26km mark, I was starting to feel a bit flat. Nutrition was okay, hydration was good, the pace was fine, did I need sleep? Les Contamines (1,163m) arrived and I didn’t linger, grabbing the usual food and heading off with full bottles for the long night ahead.
The Hoka tunnel was encountered, before Notre dame de la Gorge, it’s like running through a time tunnel. Then the climbing begins, followed by another quiet of the mountains, the gears put in low range for the gradual ascent towards Col de la Bonhomme (2,330m). On this climb I was suffering from sleep fatigue, which was a surprise as it was only the first night. 

After Col de Bonhomme, I cruised through the night towards the long ascent to Col de la Seigne (2,513m) on the Italian border. Reached at first light, the view was superb and I could see the Pyramides de Calcaires, my next challenge. A stream of lights illuminated the route up a narrow foot pad to the rocky col, where hardy volunteers were doing the bib scanning all night. It was a great viewpoint to pause and do gear adjustments before the eye-watering descent over glacial moraine towards Refugio Elizabetta (2,194m). 

After Lac Combal (1,962m) I got into a good run, then went splat on a flat section. There were a few grazes, but I dusted off the dirt and kept going. Next, the 450m vert to Arete De Favre (2,437m) with fantastic views of Mt Blanc and the big glaciers tumbling down this side. Then a leg burning descent to Courmayeur (1,197m), the spiritual half way point, where my partner Jenny would start crewing me. 

The trail from Bertone (1,977m) to Arnouvaz is one of the most spectacular trails in the Alps with alpine meadows and stunted forest, and flowers showcase colour and variety. Arnouvaz (1,787m) was the last recovery stop before the big climb to Grand col Ferret (2,535m). Then in Switzerland I was keen to moderate the long downhill. I latched on to the back of some other runners, cruising along in their wake and enjoying the flow. 

La Fouly (1,603m), the next big stop, was welcomed as night started to arrive. Jenny looked after me well at Champex Lac (1,472m), where we tried to minimise down time, but it disappeared all too quickly. I needed sleep, so grabbed a 10 minute nap, which did the trick. 

I got my first update on the standings in my age group then – I was second, down by 1h 15min. 

The descent to Trient (1,308m) was a beauty. I hauled in a tonne of runners who by now were mostly walking on the big downs. While ascending the abrupt climb to Les Tseppes (1,943m), I noticed the bib on a runner I was passing – it was Simon, a British runner who was leading my age group. Game on, I thought!

I was on a nutrition plan of rice and broth in the big stations, then jellies every 30 minutes on the trail, MCT powder in one bottle and electrolytes in the other. This worked well and my energy levels were high. The formula was a measured amount of carbohydrates every 30 minutes to supplement my hard won fat adaptation. Thanks to Geoff Browning and Zach Bitter for inspiring this approach because it worked brilliantly. 

There was carnage now amongst the field, their quads cooked from the relentless distance and mountain trails. Jenny assisted in the fastest transit to date as I dumped any excess gear that was not mandatory to lighten the vest. I set off from Vallorcine (1,225m) to win my age class, with an aim for a sub 40 hour time. 

I started the climb to Tete de Bechar (1,708m) with increased pace followed by a stiff technical descent through magnificent old forest before the final climb to La Flegere (1,899m). Not holding back, I started mouth breathing on the harder sections, for the first time in the whole event and zoomed up that hill. I pole-strided over the top of La Flegere to the approval of the crowd. Then it was all down to Chamonix. Could I make it under 40 hours? The clock was ticking. My foot work was going well and I ran like a madman. 

Soon I was in the main street with the ever increasing cheering from the crowds, a couple of turns and I bolted down the finish straight and under that beautiful Blue Archway in 39 hrs 40 min. Upon crossing the line an official said I had won my age class M65-69, and a couple of hours later I was honoured to be sharing the podium with the outright winners of the UTMB.

This story originally featured in Trail Run Magazine # 54. Grab your copy here